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COLOR MIXING GUIDELINES CHECKLIST

Before you apply Kolors permanent hair color:

  • Make sure the client has had a patch test.
  • Take a strand test if changing or applying color to a new client.
  • Pre-shampoo if hair has build-up (optional)
  • Have everything needed for color application at your fingertips BEFORE you begin. Drape the client with a towel and cape. Then section the hair properly for the selected procedure.

Mixing:

  1. To mix color, have an applicator bottle or bowl and brush nearby.
  2. Mix 1 bottle of color with an equal amount of developer. 2 oz color + 2 oz developer
  3. Mix until a thick gel-like consistency is achieved.
  4. You are ready to apply the mixture

Hint: Before mixing color, consider the length of hair to be colored to determine the amount of product needed for first application.

APPLICATION

This section discusses the five application types.

  1. Virgin application (when going lighter)
  2. Virgin application (when going darker)
  3. Normal retouch
  4. Low Lift - Deposit Color
  5. Retouching - Low Lift Deposit

VIRGIN APPLICATION WHEN GOING LIGHTER OR LIFTING

  • Section hair into four parts. For normal application, begin applying color in the crown area. If a lot of gray exists in one area, begin there.
  • Apply Kolors' color to dry hair, beginning 1/2 inch from scalp and bring down to and through ends. (NOTE: If ends are over porous do not pull through at this time.) This is because hair further from the scalp receives less body heat and takes longer to process.
  • Allow color to process for 20 minutes, then, take a strand test to check for color development.
  • Now apply a fresh mixture of color to the scalp and work color through the entire head. Process until desired color is achieved and is the same from the scalp to the ends. Follow our recommended timing instructions.
  • Rinse and apply conditioner to help close the cuticle.

VIRGIN APPLICATION WHEN GOING DARKER

  • Section hair into four parts. Start application at the crown area, applying color mixture to the scalp first, immediately pulling it out and down the complete hair shaft. *If a lot of gray exists in one specific area begin there. As you are adding color, it is alright to place color at the scalp.
  • Process for the appropriate amount of time (30 minutes on most heads, 45 for tough to cover gray).

*If ends are over-porous (you'll know from your strand test):

  1. Do not pull color through to ends until other hair reaches desired shade. Then pull color through ends, processing until color is uniform from scalp to ends.
  2. If you've already put color on the ends, check frequently for color development and adjust processing time. Stop the processing anytime by removing the color mixture with a towel.
  3. When desired shade is achieved, rinse and apply conditioner to help close the cuticle.

NORMAL RETOUCH

  • Section hair into four parts. Begin applying color to the most resistant area of new growth (usually the scalp area with the most gray hair).
  • Process growth for approximately 20 to 25 minutes. Then, if blending is needed, work color mixture through to the ends.
  • After blending, check color development, using the strand test method, at two-minute intervals until desired result is achieved. (Uniform color from scalp to ends.) Follow recommended processing times.
  • When desired shade is achieved, rinse and apply conditioner to help close the cuticle.

LOW LIFT-DEPOSIT COLOR

Kolors' unique formula allows yet another option: low lift - deposit color. This unique service can be used to blend gray hair, enhance natural color, or on the client who's not ready for permanent hair color. This technique bridges the gap between semi-permanent and permanent hair color.

There is no longer the need for a separate color line when doing low lifting or color depositing. All 38 Kolors shades can be used by incorporating Kolors 10 Volume Developer and a modified processing time.

Section hair into four parts. Begin applying at the crown area, to the scalp area first, immediately pulling it out and down the complete hair shaft. As you are adding color, it is acceptable to place color at the scalp. Process for 15 to 20 minutes. If ends are over-porous, check for color development and time accordingly. When desired shade is achieved, rinse and apply conditioner to help close the cuticle

RETOUCH - LOW LIFT DEPOSIT

Section hair into four parts. Begin by applying color to the most resistant area of new growth. Process new growth for approximately 15 to 20 minutes. Then, if blending is necessary, work color mixture through to ends. After blending, check color development, using the strand test method, at two-minute intervals until desired result is achieved. (Uniform color from scalp to ends.) Follow recommended processing times. When desired shade is achieved, rinse and apply conditioner to help close the cuticle.

HELPFUL HINTS

Here are other ways to make your color service successful:

  • Do the patch test* 24 hours prior to service. *A must on new or hypersensitive clients
  • For proper and predictable results use Kolors Developer ONLY with Kolors Permanent Hair Color.
  • Discard unused, mixed product.
  • Always wear protective gloves.
  • Protect the client's skin from possible staining with plain petroleum jelly.
  • Proper application is an important factor in achieving uniform color. Be sure to apply color thoroughly and quickly.
  • Do not apply color to eyelashes or brows as this could result in blindness.
  • Do Not use Kolors Permanent Hair Color if scalp shows signs of sores, abrasions or disease. Y
  • ou can perm and color on the same day using Kolors.
  • You can color mustaches, beards and sideburns successfully.
  • Use adequate amount of color, this will ensure proper coverage.

BLEACHING AND HIGHLIFTING

To understand the process of lightening or decolorizing hair, let's examine the principles behind bleaching.

It is well known that there are seven phases to lightening.

For example, if you have natural black hair and desire to lift to a pale yellow you will experience the following.

Phases Gradual Color Lifting 
 1  Black
 Brown
 Red
 Red Gold
 Gold
6 Yellow
7 Pale-Yellow

Black Hair, when bleached, will gradually lighten through 7 phases to Pale-Yellow.

Before we discuss bleaches and what Kolors offers, let's look at alternatives:

HIGH LIFT SHADES

Kolors offers 4 high lift shades. (used when bleaching is not required.)

11N - Extra Blonde

11A - Extra Ash Blonde

12N - Ultra Blonde

12A - Ultra Ash Blonde

For best results these shades should be used on a natural level 7 or above when using single process color (not bleaching). These high lift shades are excellent when using foil or cap techniques. To achieve maximum lift high lift shades are designed to be used with 30 or 40 developer. Mix these high Lift Shades - 1 bottle of color with 4 oz of developer. (1 part color : 2 parts developer.) (These high lift shades are NOT to be used for covering gray).

KOLORS POWDERED BLEACH

Our bleach is specially formulated for professional off-the-scalp bleaching techniques (highlighting, cap method, foils, frosting, tipping, etc.). The rich, creamy consistency of Kolors Powdered Beach prevents running and creeping, and ensures consistent results. Our advanced formula reduces lifting (lightening) time but promises luminous highlights with optimum performance.

Mixing: Place 2 scoops of Kolors Powdered Bleach in a non-metallic container. Add Kolors 20 Volume Creme Developer (use 2 to 2 1/2 oz. Of developer) and mix until desired consistency has been achieved.

PRE-BLEACHING

Pre-bleaching (pre-lightening) must be done whenever the desired level of color will lift the hair more than 4 levels. (The maximum lift possible using single-step processing color is four levels.) Bleach hair, using the package directions, to the desired finished color level. Bleaching occurs rapidly; the bleaching action occurs too quickly to see the changes.

After reaching your desired level choose the color you wish to apply and proceed. Since you are now depositing level on level, use 10 volume developer. Due to pre-bleaching, your color will deposit faster than normal. Take frequent strand tests.

NOTE: This bleaching method works best when hair is very healthy. When hair is not in less than good condition, we recommend a test strand before proceeding with a bleaching service.

EXAMPLE: Client is a natural 4 and desires to be a level 10. Pre-bleach to level 10 (phase 7 pale-yellow) Select Kolors 10N and use 10 Volume Developer.