THE PATCH TEST
Some people are allergic or hypersensitive to certain drugs, foods, cosmetics and/or chemicals in hair coloring.
To establish whether your client may be allergic or hypersensitive to Kolors permanent hair color, do the following PATCH TEST 24 hours before coloring:
Using a mild soap, clean a small area (size of a quarter) on the inside elbow or behind the ear. Let area dry. Mix well 1 part Kolors shade with 1 part Kolors 20 Volume Clear Developer. With an absorbent cotton-tipped applicator, apply prepared color to the cleaned area. Allow test area to dry. Do not cover. Leave this area untouched for a day. Examine the test area after 24 hours. If there is any burning, itching, swelling, irritation or abnormal reaction in or around the area, do not use Kolors Permanent Color. If there is no reaction, the shade used in the patch test can be applied. Kolors should not be applied to hair if the scalp areas show evidence of abnormal or diseased conditions. CAUTION: Avoid contact in or around eyes. In case of accidental contact with eyes, immediately flush with warm water for 15 minutes. Consult a physician.
Always discard unused mixed Kolors Permanent Hair Color.
If Patch Test results are negative, do the Strand Test.
THE STRAND TEST
A Strand Test is recommended for new clients, clients who need corrective color or clients unhappy with their hair tones. The Strand Test is excellent for over-porous or resistant hair. Do a Strand Test when returning hair to its natural color. If working with gray hair it is a good idea to do two Strand Tests, especially if the client has more gray in the front of the head (this is often the case). A Strand Test should be done in the darker and the (lighter) areas.
Do this before you begin applying color to the head. This will not only help prevent potential problems; it will also help to determine development time. This test will show how your chosen formula works on the hair.
Procedure For Strand Test
- Mix a small amount of the formula. (Use 1 part color to 1 part clear developer.)
- Apply mixed formula to entire hair strand(s) and allow to develop. Follow recommended timing instructions.
- Check color development frequently.
- When the desired shade has been reached, remove color from strand(s). Let dry and analyze results.
If the Strand Test is unsatisfactory, it may mean that your formula is wrong, the hair is too porous or foreign elements are present. Take corrective steps or re-evaluate the hair.
THE NATURAL SERIES
Kolors' "N" series is a mixture of all three primary colors in varying amounts at each level. When you mix yellow, red and blue together, the result is a shade of brown. Level 1N has more blue in it than either yellow or red; level 10N has more yellow than either blue or red. The "N" series is a brown base color and excellent for covering gray or white hair. White hair, which lacks melanin, needs replacement of all three primaries. Remember that the most natural looking colors happens when all three primaries are present. The "N series may be used to add warmth to color. It is not designed to control unwanted warm tones.
THE GOLD SERIES
Kolors' "G" series has a yellow base. Gold becomes visible in natural hair color beginning at level 4. Our "G" series begins at level 4 and goes to level 10. Mix with the "N" series for soft golden shades on white or gray hair. Adding a "G" series to your mix will improve gray coverage. To accent gold already present in hair or to do highlights, use the Gold Series.
THE RED SERIES
Kolors' "R" series is a full collection of superb reds that will meet the needs of any colorist. You will achieve deep red tones that last without complicated formulas. Our "R" series offers intense reds, as well as subtle auburns and blondes. Before, your reds may have faded quickly. This is because direct red dyes have smaller molecules and rinse out in a short period of time. Kolors Reds are specially combined with coupling dyes that unite in the cortex to form large, stable red molecules. These large molecules stay in the hair and won't shampoo out. The result: Kolors Reds are vibrant and fade less.
THE ASH SERIES
Kolors' "A" series offers soft, natural looking shades without the green tones usually found in other ash colors. Our Ash Series has no gold or red tones. Our Ash color bases have been uniquely formulated so you can correctly counteract hair when lifting color. NOTE: All Kolors' colors and levels are intermixable to allow increased creativity and versatility, with minimal inventory
KOLORS PRIMARY TONES (CONCENTRATES)
A primary is the deepest possible concentration of pure dyes. Primaries or concentrates can be added to a formula to correct or adjust tonal values. Primaries can also be used to make color more or less intense.
Kolors has three Primary Tones (concentrates) which can be used with any of our four series to:
- add intensity
- add red or gold tones
- drab a color
YELLOW Light Warm
RED Medium Warm
BLUE Dark Cool
Yellow is the lightest and brightest of all three primary colors. When yellow is added, it will not only appear more golden, but also lighter. Yellow will enhance gray coverage.
The Red Primary can be used to produce brighter, more intense reds. Your reds will be longer lasting without lifting the natural pigment. Red cancels green tones. Blue Blue will control unwanted orange tones.
Blue can be used to drab certain shades of color. Never use blue on lighter shades where yellow is dominant. That would produce green! Blue is so strong and has so much color value that it can easily overpower the other two colors and take them from warm to cool.
Kolors' Clear Developers are made to be used with Kolors' Permanent Gel Hair Color. Our system ensures maximum coverage with uniform color and develops vibrant shades that last. It is fully stabilized and, when mixed with color, creates a no-drip formula. You no longer need two different developers for bottle or bowl application. We provide four volumes of developer to meet the demands of today's market.
KOLORS VOLUME SYSTEM
10 Volume Level on Level or 1 Level of Lift
20 Volume 2 Levels of Lift
30 Volume 3 Levels of Lift
40 Volume 4 Levels of Lift
To cover gray hair and give it a natural appearance is one of the greatest qualities of our hair color.
Gray hair has no natural color (melanin) in the hair shaft. The degree of warmth in your finished shade will be reduced to the same degree or percent of gray in the hair. When coloring gray, first check the percent of gray then add that same percent of a color from the Natural series to your formula. The Natural series is best suited for gray hair coverage because it contains all three primary colors.
Never use the Ash series by itself on hair with a high percentage of gray (50% +) or on white hair. Doing so produces artificial flat color.
As yellow is the last color to leave hair, it must be the first to be put back in. Small amounts of yellow, with its warmth and light, will insure natural looking hair color on even the most resistant gray heads.
When coloring a client with a lot of gray, it's best to formulate at a slightly higher (lighter) level than that of the natural hair. Example: Use 4N on a 50% gray head with a natural hair color 3N. Remember that lighter tones around the face produce a softer look.
RESISTANT GRAY HAIR
Some clients have gray hair that is difficult to color. Increase timing from 30 to 45 minutes in such cases. Make sure the client is seated in a draft-free area to keep the scalp as warm as possible.
There are rare cases when a client has very resistant hair that will not cover well - no matter how much extra time is given. If this is the case, "pre-soften" hair as follows: Apply 20 volume Crème developer to the resistant area of the head - leave on 5 to 10 minutes, then blot excess from hair. Do not rinse out. Proceed with the color application.
KOLORS PERMANENT HAIR COLOR
Anytime you mix all three primaries you create a brown shade. Technically all natural hair color is brown, except gray and white hair. What we consider to be a natural blonde is only the lightest of browns with a lot of yellow pigment. A natural redhead is usually of medium depth and the dominant pigment is red. A natural brunette has a larger amount of blue tones and therefore appears to be darker in value.